A beloved North Queensland Chinese restaurant has been destroyed by fire, bringing an emotional end to a local institution that had stood for 50 years.
The Sundoo Chinese Restaurant in Townsville’s Hermit Park was heavily damaged by a blaze that started at the rear of the building on Monday. The venue, largely unchanged since the 1970s, had become a nostalgic relic of traditional Cantonese-style restaurants from mid-century Australia.
The fire comes as public appreciation grows for these retro Chinese eateries, whose numbers have steadily declined across the country.
“Devastated and Heartbroken”
Jason Liang said his parents, Paul and Jenny Liang, had run Sundoo tirelessly for 27 years. The fire has left them shattered.
“This place was like a second home,” Jason said. “I’d come here after school to do homework. I worked here throughout my teenage years.”
Over the decades, the family watched their regulars grow up—from children dining with parents to returning as adults with families of their own.
“We’ve seen so many lives unfold here. There’s been a real sense of community,” he said. “Right now, we’re just heartbroken.”
A Tribute to Retro Charm
The restaurant experienced a surge in interest after being featured on the Retro Chinese Restaurants Facebook page, which celebrates vintage interior designs and menus from Australia’s golden age of Chinese dining.
Page founder Kelly Parsons described the Sundoo as one of the finest examples of its kind, filled with familiar touches—red ceiling tiles bearing longevity symbols, ornate wood panels, plastic flowers, and timeless décor.
“It’s all so warm and familiar,” she said. “The kitsch, the comfort—it’s a cultural time capsule.”
Cultural Icons and Community Pillars
Chinese restaurants have long been integral to regional Australian towns, with many serving as early social and economic bridges between Chinese immigrants and their communities.
Jennifer Wong, writer and host of the ABC’s Chopsticks or Fork, said these restaurants were often the first dining-out experiences for many Australians, especially in the 1970s when there were only around 50,000 Chinese Australians in a population of over 13 million.
“If you talk to someone from that era, odds are their first meal out was at a Chinese restaurant,” Wong said. “They weren’t just eateries—they were memories.”
Foundations for Future Generations
For many Chinese-Australian families, these restaurants provided a foothold to build a future. Writer Benjamin Law, who grew up in his parents’ restaurants on the Sunshine Coast, described them as a vital stepping stone.
“These spaces allowed families to support their kids’ education and build their lives,” he said. “They’re Chinese in name and menu, but in so many ways, they’re also deeply Australian.”
What Comes Next for Sundoo?
Jason Liang says the future of the Sundoo remains uncertain. While his parents own the business, they do not own the building. For now, the closure marks the end of a chapter.
“They always said they worked hard so I could have a better future,” he shared. “Most kids in families like ours don’t take over the business anymore—they follow different paths.”
The restaurant’s longevity and its strong ties to the local community stand as a tribute to the dedication of the Liang family—and to a style of restaurant that once defined Australian dining.
