A Lifetime Honing a Taste for Tuna
After years of carefully selecting the finest cuts, Yukitaka Yamaguchi has developed an extraordinary skill — he can identify where a tuna comes from just by tasting it.
“Canadian tuna feed on herring, giving them a distinctive aroma,” he explains. “But Japanese tuna, raised in the pristine waters of Japan’s archipelago, tastes clean and pure.”
According to Yamaguchi, it’s the stress-free, balanced ecosystem that makes Japan’s fish so exceptional. “Japanese tuna is in a league of its own.”
Yamaguchi, known as the “Tuna King” at Tokyo’s famous Toyosu fish market, maintains strict standards. He sells only to chefs he trusts and discards any fish that don’t meet his expectations, regardless of cost. His day starts at 2am and sleep is scarce, but his devotion to tuna is unwavering.
The Shokunin Spirit Behind Tokyo’s Culinary Fame
Tokyo’s reputation as the world’s culinary capital is owed to its chefs’ relentless dedication — the Japanese concept of shokunin, which translates to master craftsman, captures this commitment to lifelong perfection.
Many restaurants specialise in a single dish perfected over generations. Take Nodaiwa in Azabu Juban, for example. This 200-year-old unagi (eel) restaurant is run by 96-year-old Kanejiro Kanemoto, whose family has refined its eel and sauce recipes for centuries.
“The secret is in the sauce,” Kanemoto reveals — a treasured blend of mirin, soy sauce, and undisclosed ingredients, which was safeguarded in an air-raid shelter during World War II.
Tokyo’s Ramen Masters and the Pursuit of the Perfect Noodle
In a quieter corner of Tokyo, Michelin-starred Tomita Ramen serves up its famed tsukemen — thick noodles dipped in a rich broth. Chef Osamu Tomita obsesses over crafting the perfect noodle, believing it’s even more crucial than the soup. After years of experimenting with flour blends, he’s achieved a chewy, resilient texture that has customers lining up from around the world.
Umami Science and a Nation’s Refined Palate
Japanese cuisine’s international reputation is also rooted in the nation’s refined sense of umami, the savory “fifth taste” discovered in Japan in 1908. Flavour scientist Ryuichi Suzuki’s research suggests a lifetime of eating umami-rich foods like seaweed and dried fish has made Japanese palates particularly sensitive.
In blind tests, Japanese participants more accurately identified flavors than their international counterparts, supporting Suzuki’s claim that Japanese diners are uniquely attuned to taste.
Sushi as a Lifelong Discipline
At Toyosu, Yamaguchi collaborates with rising sushi chef Mei Kogho, whose meticulous palate and attention to detail have made her eight-seat sushi bar in Azabu Juban one of Tokyo’s most coveted dining experiences. Despite a traditionally male-dominated profession, Kogho’s precision has earned the respect of culinary icons.
In Japanese cuisine, where ingredients are minimally seasoned, quality and skill are paramount. “The fishermen, the wholesalers, and I — we all dedicate our lives to preserving the integrity of these ingredients,” Kogho says.
Yamaguchi agrees. “This relentless pursuit of excellence is the essence of Japanese craftsmanship — a spirit of never-ending improvement that’s concentrated in Tokyo’s kitchens.”
